Fat Quarter Shop is at it again, and this time they’re hosting a blog tour to show off ways we can adapt the blocks in Great Granny Squared by Lori Holt (@beeinmybonnet on IG) in different, unexpected ways. I’m super excited to show you mine! With a little bit of Bonnie + Camille Vintage Picnic in my hands, I knew exactly what I wanted to make – a modified OHSZippedCase! This one was made selfishly for ME! Can you believe that after the many I’ve made, I’ve yet to keep one for myself?
How is this modified? I made two vinyl zipped pouches instead of the original one, and to incorporate a full great granny square block (made from 2.5″ squares) I increased the size of the pouch. To view my original tutorial, click here, or keep reading to see how I modified it to create the one shown here.
Let’s get started.
You’ll need a mini charm pack or 16 2.5″ squares
A half yard of your background/lining fabric of choice
A fat eighth of accent fabric (to go around inner zippers and under thread holders)
70″ bias binding
13″ x 18″ piece of Pellon Flex Foam 2-sided fusible, or Annie’s Soft and Stable (this is unfusible, fyi)
Two 10.5″ zippers (You can use 12″ zippers, and cut down to 11″ if needed)
One 30″ zipper
3 pieces of 1/4″ elastic, each cut to 2″ long
5″ x WOF SF 101 or other light/mid weight fusible interfacing
Two pieces of vinyl, each cut to 8″ x 12″
All seams are 1/4″ unless otherwise stated.
Finished Dimensions: open – 12″ x 18″; closed – 12″ x 8.5″
Begin by deciding what prints you’d like to use, and if you’re wanting a scrappy version like mine, or a more uniform version. Following the directions in the book, create your block using 2.5″ squares and your background fabric of choice. I used a Vintage Picnic mini charm square pack.
Lay them out as you’d like your final design to appear, and begin sewing away to create your great granny square.
Once you’ve created your final block, trim it down to 12″ square.
Add a 3.5″ x 12″ piece of your background fabric to each side (you’ll need to first decide on how you ultimately want the great granny square oriented into your zipped case) and sew together using a 1/4″ seam. This is your exterior piece, and at this point should measure 12″ tall by 18″ wide, with the granny square falling right in the center.
If you’re using the Pellon 2-sided fusible, cut it down to match the size of your exterior piece, and then fuse together. I use my iron at a very high heat and haven’t had an issue with the 2nd side fusing to my ironing board, etc, but just be cautious of that. Quilt as desired. If you’re using a non-fusible foam, you can skip this step and go straight into quilting. I simply stitched-in-the-ditch of each square.
Now you’ll want to cut your lining piece to match the exterior + foam (this often shrinks slightly after quilting, and you can always cut it fit a little later). If using the fusible flex foam, you can go ahead and fuse the lining now, and if you’re using a non-fusible foam, you can sew it down with a basting stitch.
Now we’ll prep the zippers: If your interior zippers are a little short, like mine, you’ll need to add zipper tabs on each end of the two zippers. To do this, I simply took a small 1.25″ square of fabric and folded one edge to the wrong side by a 1/4″ and then sewed that to the zipper end. I repeated this three more times to cover all four ends of the two zippers. (You can fuse these small squares with SF101 if desired, and here I did not because they won’t get much wear.)
Now we’re going to get the accent pieces ready. You’re going to need to cut four 1.25″ x 12″ strips (these will go on either side of the two interior zippers) and a 2″ x 12″ strip. Fuse all of these with SF101 or your light/midweight fusible of choice. **I usually prefer to fuse the SF101 first, and then cut it to the sizes needed.
My sewing lives and dies by Pellon 1/4″ Lite EZ-Steam II and I use it constantly. To ensure my zippers get sewn on straight to the fabric, I first fuse a piece of this to the fabric (I actually cut my EZ-Steam strips in half here because I use a very scant 1/4″ seam), then take away the backing paper, and place the zipper down, then fuse all together, and finally sew my seam. See my original tutorial for more detailed pics of how I use this fusible tape. I repeat this when I’m ready to sew the vinyl to the fabric as well, but I simply press-fuse since I want to limit my iron’s contact with the vinyl. **Please note – before you sew your vinyl to your fabric/zippers strips, you’ll want to choose your orientation for the zippers. I preferred my zippers both closing at the top, but you may prefer otherwise.
Now you’re just about ready to baste these vinyl pouches to the lining, but first you’re going to want to cut away any excess. Lay each vinyl/zipper pouch onto your lining, matching the edges of each pouch to the outer edges of the lining/foam/exterior. There should be overlap (in my case it was about three inches)! You’re going to want to measure how much overlap there is, and cut enough away that they meet in the center. For mine, I needed to trim almost 1.5″ away from both (just about safe to say that you divide the overlap amount in half and cut that amount from each pouch). Double and triple check this before you finally cut, because they need to meet in the center. If they don’t exactly touch, that’s fine; even being a half inch apart is okay since they will be covered. Now baste around the entire piece (exterior + foam + lining + vinyl pouches) on all four sides. Use wonder clips instead of pins whenever you deal with vinyl.
Now we’ll prep the center accent piece (the 2″ x 12″ piece that you fused with SF101 above) that will cover the raw edges of the vinyl from the above step and hold the elastic thread holders. You’ll want to flip it with the wrong side up, and draw a long line directly down the center. I use a water soluble pen, but you can use anything that won’t be erased by the heat of your iron. Then you’ll fold each long end into the center, wrong sides together, to meet that line and press well. Once you’ve done that, use three of the Pellon EZ-Steam 1/4″ strips and fuse to the back side: one on each end, and one down the middle.
To prep the elastic pieces, mark a line at 1/4″ on each end of all three pieces.
I used the grid markings created by my quilting to figure out where the center of the entire piece was, and also where I wanted to place the elastic (making sure the thread spools I plan to use will fit well). I did my best to put that center strip there, and when I was happy with the placement, I peeled up the right and center strip of the Pellon EZ-Steam. I placed the elastic under the center strip where I wanted each one to go, and finger-pressed it all down.
This next step has many functions: to secure the elastic, and secure the lining to the exterior and to cover up the raw edges of the vinyl: you’re going to edge stitch the center strip, right over the elastic. Once I get close to a piece of elastic, I move it across the center strip and sew right over it. I prefer to reduce my stitch length as I sew over the elastic, and even go over it a few times, back and forth.
Once you’re done with that, you’ll repeat for the opposite side. Pull off the backing of the last piece of the Pellon EZ-Steam tape, and rest the elastic underneath, aligning it with the first side, and again up to the 1/4″ mark. You’ll again edge sew, over the elastic, securing the other ends, reducing your stitch length, as desired. (I forgot to take a photo immediately after this was done, but you’ll see what I mean in subsequent photos).
Home stretch! Now you’re ready to round your edges, if desired. I prefer to use my Creative Grids Curved Corner Cutter ruler, and I use the 1.5″ radius edge. But you could use any 3″ circle to get the same sized edge (like a 3″ embroidery hoop or just print out a 3″ circle and use that to draw your outline with).
Once that’s done you’re ready to attach the zipper. I only had a 36″ zipper on hand, and I’ll cut that down at the end, but a 30″ zipper would be ideal. You’re going to want to start at the top of that center strip, and align the outer “raw” edge of the tape of the right side of the zipper with the raw edge of the zipped case (the photo should clear all the confusion up), and you’re going to flip up the tail end. Slowly work your way around to the bottom of the center strip, clipping the zipper as needed to ease around the corners. Wonder clips to the rescue. When you get to the bottom edge, you’ll want to flip the zipper up (I use the elastic rings to secure it out of my way). Repeat for the opposite side.
Sew down with a scant 1/4″ seam, making sure that you gently push the zipper teeth out of the way as your round the corners.
When you’re done, be sure you are able to zip it closed and that all of your corners meet together without creating a wonky shift/twist.
Now you’re ready to add the bias binding. There’s plenty of tutorials on the web for creating your own, or you can buy it pre-made at hobby stores and online. I sew this down just like it was quilt binding, aligning raw edges, and leaving enough of a gap to miter my last seam. Again, lots of tutorials on the web if you need to refer to them.
When that’s done, I flip to the right side and hand sew it down.
The last step is creating a zipper tab, if needed, based on the width of your zipper, and you’re done! Thank you for following along, and please tag me in your finish (@ohhowsweetco on Instagram), and use #OHSZippedCase to pool it with all the others! xoxo